Friday, January 24, 2014

January 16th, 2014-David Renaud & Irancy- Just 20 minutes north of rand Cru vineyards of Chablis lies a town with 1 restaurant and dozens of Vignerons called Irancy. This is often referred to as the red wine wine of Chablis. We found that notion, however, to be a dismissive generalization. We had lunch with David Renaud at, well, the only restaurant in Irancy. There, he seemingly knew everyone and, it seemed as if everyone made wine. We tasted through his range of wines, made almost exclusively from Pinot Noir (with a little C├ęsar thrown into a few of them). You might expect thin, vapid, watery Pinots from such a Northerly appellation, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. In tasting through the wines, we noted a power and a richness of dark fruit that seemingly had more in common with wines of Southern Burgundy than anywhere else. These distinctive Bourgognes not only deserve their own AOC, but really deserve much more than just curiosity status. David is gentle and soft spoken, but clearly leading this appellation by example. He showed us the vineyards of Irancy, which extended more than 250 meters above the town surrounding it on all sides like a birds nest. This cove helps protect the vines form harsh elements. The soil was filled with Kimmeridgian Limestone and we found several fossils in the topsoil.  So while sharing a similar soil with Chablis, the vineyards appeared fairly different, more gentle slopes with varying aspects. As with the other producers we have  been visiting, we immediately noted the delineation of where David’s vineyards begin and end, as he is adamantly organic.

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