Thursday, December 17, 2015

Grochau Cellars – At the Intersection of Agriculture, Chemistry, and Artistry

John Grochau readily admits that he does as little as possible. Not that the owner and winemaker at Grochau Cellars in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in Oregon doesn’t work hard. He just believes that his wines express their true natures best with the absolute minimum of intervention.

Grochau grew up in the backyard of the Oregon wine industry in Portland. Later in life he was introduced to the world of wine while living in France, where he raced bicycles. After his retirement from the sport and return to the United States, he wanted to pursue wine as a career and was drawn to the idea of creating his own expression of the land he knew so well.

His first full-time job with a winery was at Brick House, which has been certified organic since 1990 and presently practices Biodynamic agriculture. This reverence for nature has deeply informed Grochau’s winemaking style and has driven his non-interventionist style.  “Brick House taught me about wine from bud break to bottle,” says Grochau. “By working with the right sites and letting nature take its course, you are best served with minimal work in the vineyard.”

When it was time to strike out on his own, Grochau wanted to make the expression of place his highest priority, and was drawn to the Eola-Amity Hills region of the Willamette Valley. With its thin and rocky volcanic soil, the water holding capacity of the ground is limited, resulting in small grape bunches that are highly concentrated. The Van Duzer corridor, a lowland route that leads directly to the Pacific coast, also provides a wide variation in daytime and nighttime temperatures, even in the heat of summer, which also prolongs the growing season and adds even more concentration to the grapes. The finished wine tends to show darker red and black fruit, high acidity, and earthy minerality. “This is what I feel like is classic Pinot Noir,” adds Grochau, “bright acids with earthy and mineral undertones.”

In addition to the Eola-Amity Hills and Bjornson Vineyard, Grochau also makes Pinot Noirs from Dundee Hills further north as well as a greater Willamette Valley designate. After manual harvest, all the grapes are hand-sorted and partially destemmed, with some whole cluster fruit being used in each wine. He uses native yeast fermentation and the wines are aged entirely in French oak, of which 15-30% of the barrels are new.

A newer addition to Grochau Cellars, the Commuter Cuvée is meant to be a go-to Pinot Noir at a price that makes it accessible for everyday drinking. Unlike the other wines, it is completely destemmed and also aged partially in stainless steel. “With the Commuter Cuvée, I really wanted it to be about the purity of the fruit,” says Grochau. “I want people to be able to smell the grape, which sets it apart from a lot of Pinot Noir at the same price point.” While still adhering to his sustainable tenets, he has managed to create a wine that is approachable and pairs beautifully with a variety of foods.  

In addition to the range of Pinot Noirs that form the core of his lineup, Grochau is also working to expand his range. He has already released a Gamay made in a Beaujolais-Villages style, with about a year of aging in used oak. Next up is a Burgundian-influenced Chardonnay from a slightly warmer site near Dundee Hills. This wine will have fairly low alcohol, somewhere between 12.5-13%, and is aged in only 12% new oak to preserve the flavors of the grape.

Wednesday, December 16, 2015





foodandwine:



© Quentin Bacon


Wine Wednesday: "The sauce fits the pasta,“ said chef Marc Vetri in praise of this tender veal ragu flavored with white wine, capers, thyme and rosemary, then tossed with the little ear-shaped orecchiette. “The meat, the capers–they hang on to the pasta when you lift up your fork.”


Recipe: Orecchiette with Veal, Capers and White Wine




This delicious winter pasta pairs beautifully with our “Olivar” white blend from Cesconi.

Tuesday, December 15, 2015

French Harvest Reports 2015

Now that the grapes have been picked and baby wine is safely resting in barrel or tank, we thought we’d bring you some reports about the 2015 harvest in France:

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Stay tuned for more vintage reports coming your way soon …

Monday, December 14, 2015

Jancis Robinson’s Cool Whites

Samuel Billaud’s Chablis “Mont de Milieu” has made Jancis Robinson’s list of “A Pick of Cool Whites:”

“Now that he is on his own, and gradually repossessing the old Billaud-Simon vineyards, Samuel Billaud is making some of the most precise Chablis around. Samuel Billaud, Mont de Milieu Premier Cru 2012 Chablis (£25.50 Haslemere Cellar) is already more expressive than many 2012 Premiers Crus with hints of both honey and smokiness. Very long and satisfying, this is the arch thirst-quencher.”

You can read the rest of the article here, and find out more about the wines of Samuel Billaud here.

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Max Ferd. Richter - Three Centuries of History and Tradition in the Mosel

Making wine in the Mosel of northern Germany for over three centuries, Max Ferd. Richter produces world-class Rieslings from some of the most esteemed vineyards in the region. Langdon Shiverick has been importing their wines since 1986, making them a cornerstone in our portfolio. David Shiverick explains some of their history and what makes them special in the context of such a prestigious region:

“Dirk is the 9th generation of family that has been making wine in Mülheim since 1680. He joined his father after working for a couple of years for Martel (a well-known Cognac house). He came home and started working with his father. His father just passed away least year at the age of 94. And now Dirk’s son, Constantine, has joined him as the 10th generation. Constantine studied at Geisenhem, the famous wine school in the Rheingau, then worked for a while in the Finger Lakes district in New York. He is very involved in the running of the estate now.

It’s an impressive estate because they’re fairly large landowners. Most of the domaines are very small in this area, but they are one of the bigger ones and all their wines are estate bottled. Importantly, they control vineyard sites all throughout the Mittelmosel, particularly in Brauneberg, Brauneberg Juffer and Brauneberg Juffer-Sonnenhur, which is the grand cru. The Brauneberg vineyard faces the village of Mülheim, where the Richter family has lived for centuries, and they have a strong presence there. They also have two monopoles in Mülheimer Helenenkloster, which is where Richter makes his Eiswein, as he has every year since 1961, and Mülheimer Sonnenlay, which is where he makes the Zeppelin wine.  

The third monopole, Veldenzer Elisenberg, is a vineyard that was given to the Richter family at the time that Napoleon Bonaparte was retreating through Germany from Russia. The army was in a very bad way, as you can imagine, and were sacking cities as they went along. As they came towards the town of Mülheim, one of Dirk’s ancestors went to Napoleon’s camp and persuaded him to leave the town in peace. So as a reward, the town gave him the vineyard Elisenberg.”

Max Ferd. Richter has many years of traditions passed down from generation to generation. While the estate has also maintained an eye to the future in utilizing modern techniques, Dirk holds to some winemaking regimes that reflect the styles of times past:

“The estate is really unique in that he still ages his wines in barrels. In the big foudre, not small barrels, but bigger ones. And if you visit his cellar, you see these dark, brown, very old barrels. Most people have gone to vinify their Rieslings in tank. But Richter has stayed the course and it makes his wines very special.

What Richter does, he just got a new barrel five years ago, and he’s just now starting to use that barrel. For the first five years, he filled it with water, drained it out, and kept repeating the process to get rid of the oaky taste, which isn’t a component you want in Riesling. Barrel aging makes a difference because there is a porosity to barrels, and it allows wine to breathe as it ages, which the tank doesn’t do, resulting in a signature softness to the wines.”

Rieslings, both dry and sweet, have gained popularity in recent years for several reasons, not least of all because the grape is a natural fit on the dinner table:

“Riesling is the perfect food wine. It is the greatest, most noble varietal, because it goes with all kinds of food. First of all you’ve got the different styles of wine, sweet, dry, and they age so well, better than any other wine. People say minerality to describe wine from almost anywhere, you can use it for anything, it’s a new buzzword. But this is the real minerality. You’ve got a real earthiness with a mineral quality. You’ve got beautiful peach aromas, sometimes red currant, then you get this wonderful acidity that no other wines have and the combination of acidity, fruitiness, minerals, and earthiness, that’s what makes the wine age worthy and great with food.” 

In the excellent hands of Dirk and Constantine, Max Ferd. Richter promises to continue its attention to detail and quality. Form the QBAs on up through the Eisweins, their hallmark balance is evident in every glass.

Here’s a fun video with Dan from Deux Punx discussing his white Rhone blend. For more from the Wine Weirdos, including several more D.P. reviews: https://www.youtube.com/user/WineWeirdos

Monday, December 7, 2015

Champagne - Not Just for New Year’s Eve

Champagne has long been the go-to for celebrations – the bubbles, the sense of occasion, even the pop of the cork. But a not-so-well-kept secret amongst wine professionals is that Champagne is also a food wine par excellence. A quick Google search reveals wine writers touting sparkling wine as an ideal match with macaroni and cheese, pumpkin pancakes, or steak.

Langdon Shiverick is proud to represent two Champagne producers who are part of the movement towards smaller, estate-grown wines that has become fashionable in the region. As opposed to large houses that purchase most of their fruit, grower producers have a greater degree of control over their fruit and the resulting wine more fully expresses the variation between vintages.

Founded in 1968 in the southerly village of Allemant in the heart of the Cotes des Blancs, Champagne Bernard Rémy debuted on the domestic market in France in the early 70’s to excellent reviews. With time and success comes expansion, and in 1983, Rémy built his own winery on premise to facilitate the purchase of more hectares of vine in other areas in Champagne. Now, 50 years after its inception, Rémy holds no less than 11 hectares under vine in prime parcels of Champagne, including Grand Cru areas. The sophistication of the wines and approachable price points highlight Champagne Bernard Rémy’s persistent quest for perfection in each aspect of their product.

New to our portfolio, Laforge-Testa was founded in 1900 by Emile and Léone Laforge. Originally, the winery was a supplier for Moët Chandon, however, after World War One, Emile and other local winegrowers collaborated to found a local union for the production of Champagne in the Marne Valley and Laforge-Testa was born. So strong are their ties to the union that they still ferment and partially age their wines in the co-op, though the grapes for their bottlings are kept separate from the other growers’ production. The family has long supported the growing of Chardonnay in the Marne Valley, a part of Champagne more famed for its Pinot Meunier, and currently Chardonnay vineyards make up 40% of the winery’s holdings. Today, Larforge-Testa is run by the fourth generation of the family and continues to provide estate-grown Champagne at an excellent value.

Enjoy Champagne through the rest of this holiday season and to toast the New Year. Then continue the good times into 2016 with bubbles making a regular appearance as an aperiftif, with dinner, or even at brunch!

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Luis Gutierrez’s Best of 2015

Writing for The Wine Advocate, Luis Gutierrez names Domaine Macle’s Château-Chalon as one of his top three wines of 2015, writing, “The master of Château Chalon, the appellation dedicated exclusively to the production of Vin Jaune, is Domaine Macle. Their 2007 Château Chalon from a cool vintage has all that is needed to age superbly in bottle and reach world class status. After more than six years aging under a veil of yeasts in cask, this yellow wine is still young, and as much as it is pleasurable now, it will develop additional complexity in bottle. Patience will be rewarded.”

Monday, November 30, 2015

Samuel Billaud - A Maverick with Pedigree in Chablis

France, Burgundy: Painful Pleasure - Chablis 2013/2014For those of you who love the crisp, chalky salinity of fine Chablis, the name Billaud should ring a few bells. Domaine Billaud-Simon has been a powerhouse in old school Chablisienne quality for two centuries now, since 1815. Samuel cut his teeth at the family domaine, but since 2009 Samuel has been at the helm of his own project -  Domaine Samuel Billaud - and the accolades are starting to roll in from major wine publications such as The Wine Advocate, Burghound, and Vinous.

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Neal Martin of The Wine Advocate talks to the Billaud in his piece “France, Burgundy: Painful Pleasure - Chablis 2013/2014 - Domaine Samuel Billaud.” In addition, he wrote up the wines of the two vintages, with many strong showings throughout the line.

Allen Meadows of Burghound finds much to like at the fledgling domaine, writing in late 2014: “life was about to materially change in a good way for Samuel Billaud thanks to the partial sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon …” He awarded scores of 90+ to many of the wines. 

Steven Tanzer also praises the 2013/2014 vintages, giving consistent scores and noting that “got back four hectares of vines, and in vintage 2014 his production will be up to about 7,500 cases of wine.”

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Wines for Your Thanksgiving Table

Last week we focused on the Chave Selections Saint-Joseph “Offerus” as perfect for your Thanksgiving table. But variety is the spice of life, so here are a few more suggestions:

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Sparkling rose adds a festive touch to any occasion. Impress with this Pinot Noir-based bottle from Alsace. Bright and delicate, this super-dry sparkling rosé of Pinot Noir shows strawberry, raspberry, and rhubarb notes. Find out more … 

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Riesling is a welcome addition to a meal that has lots of variety, with its bright acidity and fruit flavors complementing a variety of foods. Start with this off-dry white this Thanksgiving with its notes of orchard fruits and stony minerality. Find out more …

A lighter-bodied red at Thanksgiving can provide a great option for those who don’t want big, structured reds throughout the meal. To help combat palate fatigue, try this Dolcetto, which is light and bright, with notes of berries, plum and slight bit of texture that harmonizes well with food. Find out more … 

All of us at Langdon Shiverick wish you a happy Thanksgiving with lots of good food and wine!

Thursday, November 19, 2015

Amphora Wines at Herdade do Rocim



2,000 years ago the Romans introduced amphora
winemaking to the Alentejo region of Portugal, specifically
the small southern wine region of Vidigueira.
Winemaking with amphora, or talhas as they are called
in Portugal, is rarely commercially viable today. But estates
such as Herdade do Rocim are rediscovering this
ancient tradition with much success. 

At Herdade do Rocim in Alentejo, Sr. Pedro has become
a local celebrity in terms of his amphora winemaking.
He grew up on the estate, and oversees the vineyards
and amphora. Each year, locals gather in the small village
of Vila de Frades – just a couple miles down the
road from Herdade do Rocim – for the Talha Wine Festival,
where for the past 30 years Sr. Pedro has won first
or second place in the amphora wine competition. The
ancient method has been passed down for three generations at the estate – both his father
and his grandfather, who were also born and raised at the estate, made wines in this traditional
fashion. 

Most wines made with amphora never see a bottle and must be consumed within the year. To
drink, you simply dip your jug straight into the amphora and enjoy – no bottles, no corks. It never
crossed Sr. Pedro’s mind to bottle his own amphora wine until it made such a great impression
on David during a visit to the estate that he decided to give bottling a try. A few years later,
Herdade do Rocim became the first Portuguese estate to make traditional, authentic wine from
amphora and successfully bottle it for sale.

 Sr. Pedro keeps the amphorae outside and above ground, which
is different from some other winemakers who keep the pots buried
underground. Like the Romans did 2,00 years ago, he lines
the insides of the clay pots with beeswax and olive oil made onsite
with cobrancosa olives. The grapes that go into the amphora
are from the oldest vines on the property – 60 to 80 years old.
Due to the age of the vines, the grapes are low to the ground
and are covered by a leafy canopy. Therefore, the grapes are
slow to ripen and are picked at the end of September. Sr. Pedro
only uses traditional, native grapes for his amphora wine. For
the white wine, he uses Antão Vaz, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha and
Manteúdo. For the red wine, he uses Aragonez and Trincadeira.
Herdade do Rocim is one of the only estates in the region to grow
these varietals. In fact, when Catarina and her father bought the
estate, the local people told them to replace the grapes with more popular international varietals.
They are glad they decided not to as these varietals are now nearly extinct.

The white and red wine are made exactly the same way. Everything goes inside the amphora –
the grapes, the skins and the stems. Fermentation takes about two weeks and the grape juice,
stems and skins are stirred three to four times a day. Nothing is added - no inoculations, no
sulfur, no corrections. Once alcoholic fermentation is complete, malolactic fermentation takes
place. After malolactic fermentation, the skins and the stems sink down to the bottom of the
amphora where they lay for six months. The amphora has no lid, so Sr. Pedro puts a layer of
olive oil on top of the the wine as a natural protectant and to keep the wine from oxidizing. For
bottling, the small tap at the bottom of the amphora is opened and the wine trickles through
the skins and stems, naturally filtering the wine. Then the wine is taken to the winery, already
filtered, and a tiny bit of sulfur is added before going straight into the bottle. Since the wine
was left on the skins and stems for both the white and red wine, the tannins naturally preserve
the wine in bottle and little sulfur is needed. 

The grapes and vinification process are unique, so in turn, the taste of the wine is also unique.
It is an extreme representation of the terroir, reflected in both the good and bad years. In the
good years, the wines express minerality, freshness and elegance. They are not perfect in terms
of winemaking, but there is beauty in its faults that cannot be experienced with any other
wine.


A Perfect Wine for Thanksgiving

Eater.com has named the Chave Selection Saint-Joseph “Offerus” as an ideal wine for your Thanksgiving table. Want more? We’ll have some more turkey-tastic recommendations coming your way next week!

Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Monday, November 9, 2015

Les Chais du Vieux Bourg: An Interview with David Shiverick

We recently sat down with David
Shiverick to talk about Les Chais du Vieux Bourg, one of the properties we
represent out of Jura, France. Owned by Ludwig Bindernagel and Natalie Eigenschenck,
these first-generation winemakers have made quite an impression on this small,
close-knit winemaking region.

“Ludwig, originally from Bavaria,
is a trained architect. While he was working in Paris he met Natalie and they quickly
fell in love. They wanted to make wine in Burgundy, but the land was too
expensive, so they settled in the Jura. Ludwig took to the area very well and he’s
rapidly become a big star there - people love him.

In an old community like that you
might think that they might not be accepting of a new person, but it’s been no
problem. There’s so much infighting in this old community in Jura that he’s a
breath of fresh air. He has an electrifying smile that wins you over so easily.
He has this beautiful, cherubic face and smile, and he’s such a fair-minded
person, no angriness, just an amazing guy. He makes everyone happy, everyone
likes the guy.”

When David first met Ludwig, he
thought it would be a quick trip to his tasting room. He quickly learned
otherwise.

“I figured we’d have 15 wines to
taste, that’s what he said, so I said ‘okay, maybe 45 minutes to an hour.’ No.
He and his wife served 15 courses of food and a different course for each wine.
And this is the way they think about wine in the Jura. That it’s very important
that it be matched up to the cuisine. No one just drinks wine by itself.”

The oxidative quality of many of
the wines of Jura often create an impediment to consumers used to a different
style of wine. While many of Ludwig’s wine aren’t oxidative, even those that
are prove to be an excellent match to the traditional cuisine of the region.

“…they’re very difficult wines to
learn about and enjoy, because you can’t just drink the wine by itself. It
tastes a little sour and it has a unique curry profile that you never taste in
any other wines, it’s quite pleasing. But match it with a washed-rind cheese
and it’s delicious. It’s also perfect with the local specialty of chicken in a
cream sauce with morel mushrooms.”

Ludwig’s latest acquisition is
property in the vaunted Château-Chalon, the home of Vin Jaune. Land in the
appellation is incredibly difficult to come by, with every available plot owned
by people whose roots in the area often go back generations. Thanks to Ludwig’s
considerable charm however, he was able to get a foothold in this historic
place.

“It’s a beautiful site. It’s the
name of a medieval village that sits on top of what is in essence an atoll,
with a village right on top like a beret, and the vineyards go around the hill
on the east, south and west sides. It’s almost entirely planted and you can
never buy vineyard sites in Chalon.

But one day about four years ago,
there was a knock at his door, and there was a young man who introduced himself
and informed Ludwig that his father has land in Château-Chalon and he had sent
the young man there because he would like to sell it to Ludwig – who was
understandably overwhelmed. Ludwig  asked ‘why do you think he wants to sell to
me, I don’t really know your father?’ To which the young man replied ‘because
he knows everyone else and he doesn’t think the other vigneron play fair. And
he sees you and sees that you’re so fair and he would love to find a way to
sell this land to you.’ So here he got the most perfect gift and it fell right
into his lap.”

In addition to Ludwig’s
winemaking, the family also purchased an old hôtel particulier (similar to a
bed & breakfast), which was once home to a family with eight children.
There, Nathalie cooks an inclusive breakfast and optional seasonal dinner. With
their completely natural approach to winemaking and veneration to the Jura’s
ways and traditions, Ludwig and Natalie are attracting attention for all the
right reasons.