Wednesday, September 25, 2019

Wine of the Week - Samuel Billaud Petit Chablis 'Sur Le Clos'

One of the stealth values in Samuel Billaud’s lineup is his Petit Chablis ‘Sur la Clos.’ As its name indicates, it comes from four hectares he owns in a vineyard directly above the famed Grand Cru ‘Les Clos,’ with the only difference being that the Petit vineyard lays on Portlandian limestone instead of Kimmeridgian. In contrast, many other producers’ Petits generally come from vineyards that are more far-flung, while this particular wine truly comes from the heart of Chablis.

This wine regularly gets acclaim, drinking far above its AOP. Of the 2017 vintage, Neal Martin, writing for Vinous says:
"The 2017 Petit Chablis Sur La Clos, which was racked one time, has a very perfumed bouquet with crisp red apple and light lemon zest aromas. The palate is fresh and crisp, very good acidity here with a vivid finish with plenty of tension. Recommended."

Part of an esteemed Chablis family, Samuel Billaud struck out on his own in 2009 to found his eponymous domaine. He had previously been the winemaker at Domaine Billaud-Simon, which had been a shining light in the old school Chablis clubhouse of quality. Since the creation of his own label, Samuel has met with great success and moved into a new winery space in 2015 as well as purchasing four hectares of vines that had previously belonged to Domaine Billaud-Simon. The resulting range, from AC to Grand Cru, are layered wines rife with crunchy oyster shell and silex, and exhibit a range of flavor profiles from licorice to white peach to toasty baguette. This is top quality Chablis from a rising star producer – for white Burgundy lovers, these are not to be missed.

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